Regular maintenance done personally

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    Weren‘t there some reports of a slipping clutch when using full synthetic oil?

    So, 10k service successfully accomplished and bike still runs. :)

    What I did:

    • spark plugs replaced (NGK)
    • coolant changed (Yamalube blue)
    • throttle bodies synced
    • oil (Motul 5100 10W40) changed
    • oil filter (HF204RC) replaced
    • brake fluid changed (Motul DOT 4 LV)
    • air filter check hose was perfectly clean

    As I was a bit unhappy with the idea of removing fuel tank and all the connections on it, or at least rotating it 180 degrees, I decided to try accomplishing everything with fuel tank in place. Changing sparks was a bit tricky, but in the end it worked. Old sparks were a bit yellowish on the thread, but I guess they were not too bad:

    IMG_20200610_220258_autoscaled.jpgIMG_20200610_222738_autoscaled.jpg

    I have checked dials on the same vacuum and they were showing identical values. No adjustment was possible on a dial itself.

    Result:

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    It seems pretty close.

    Oil filter was screwed by some Schwarzenegger. I have tried many different tricks on them, almost broke my hands, and in the end removed it with locked parrot beak pliers from the front and a 22mm wrench as a lever through the pliers. New filter is oiled and tightened to spec: 17Nm.

    I was able to pour just a bit over 2.5L of new oil to achieve upper limit.

    Brake fluid was bled and I went to engage both ABS circles couple of times on some loose ground. Lever is pretty stiff and front break reacts well providing enough stopping power, but as I'm paranoid about the air still trapped in the system, especially because of the loop above front fender. Next time I'll get some vacuum tool to provide continuous flow of brake fluid in order to be sure bubbles from the loop are extracted, too.

    Great, seems like you saved a lot of bucks today.

    Sometimes I use a strong vacuum at the caliper and pull the brake lever for pressure at the same time, then I open the bleeding screw. This causes a nice fast flush of old brake fluid out of the caliper. Don't know if this gives me an advantage, but in my wild private fantasies the fast movement of the fluid takes more dirt and air out. Then I finish the bleeding the conservative way. Since some weeks I have installed automatic bleeding valves to the front calipers for yearly service, time will tell how good these are.

    Can't imagine how you managed it to change the spark plugs with the tank installed, but I don't have a Tracer. MT-07 tank removal was easy going for me :D
    Maybe next time I will try to remove the radiator and reach them from the front of the bike, last time I chose the way down through the electronic relais and abs hydraulic assembly.
    My old NGKs for comparison, mileage in km.
    I forgot to take a picture of the electrode's gap, it was still ok but already in the upper limit of specification.

    Zitat von Gonzo

    ...

    Don't know if this gives me an advantage, but in my wild private fantasies the fast movement of the fluid takes more dirt and air out.

    ...

    :D :D :D FTW!

    Taking out right ignition coil including twisting and turning forward, to the side...:

    IMG_20200610_214325_autoscaled.jpg

    Torquing left spark after replacement:

    IMG_20200610_215927_autoscaled.jpg