Ventilspiel kontrollieren und einstellen

That`s really strange....

I would rotate the camshaft 180°

One practical question:

Once you have achieved desired valve clearances and mounted that bloody cylinder head cover, do you try starting the engine without cooler to check if it is running, or that could hurt cooling pump (to run without a fluid for some seconds)?

I mean, it would be much better to realize that I have to open and rework everything again before I mount cooler and pour fresh cooling fluid in the system...

I would install the cooler...

Zitat von Thommy

I would install the cooler...

I did that, thx!

After assembling, I got famous Yama-tick sound.

I don't know if it was there before or it's just louder now as plastic covers are removed and I'm in a concrete garage.

It can also be from a bit bigger valve clearance, as I increase it close or to max value (all of them were close to minimum or below, so trend is going down).

Hallo,

bin auch gerade dabei das Ventilspiel einzustellen. Mach sowas das erste Mal.

Habe jetzt allerdings wie ich festellen musste reingeschissen.

Ich habe den Camshaft in der Position wie auf dem Bild von "trxman" ausgebaut.
https://www.mt07-forum.de/attachment/18805-pxl-20240224-142743267-jpg/
also genau um wie ich jetzt festellen musste um 180 grad verdreht.

Bei mir stimmt allerdings die Postion des Zahnrades und dieses ist nicht falschrum montiert.

Edit: Bin mir doch nicht sicher ob die Position des Zahnrades stimmt, da die welle nicht bei E sondern auch wie bei "trxman" bei "I" rausschaut.

20240402_193015.jpg

Unten um Kuckloch war alles genau auf der Makierung und die beiden Ventiele auf der Seite haben auch von einander weggezeigt wie auf dem Bild von "trxman":
https://www.mt07-forum.de/attachment/18803-pxl-20240224-133156805-jpg/

https://www.mt07-forum.de/attachment/18802-pxl-20240224-133113501-jpg/

Ich hatte mich beim lösen des Covers bereits gewundert, da es hierbei ein plötzliches Klacken gab.

Mir ist dann auch aufgefallen, dass der Camshaft als das Cover ab war nicht mehr auf "I" wie davor stand, nun sondern auf "E".

Da ich das ganze wie gesagt das erste mal mache habe ich nun ein bisschen Angst dass ich was kaputt gemacht habe, da mir auch einige Abriebspuren auf der Nockenwelle aufgefallen sind.

20240402_192937.jpg20240402_192931.jpg20240402_192914.jpg20240402_192919.jpg

Ich weiß jetzt ehrlich gesagt nicht wie ich weiter vorgehen soll.
Laut meinem Vater (Hat deutlich mehr Ahnung als ich) sind die Abreibungen normale gebrauchsspuren und völlig im Rahmen.

Bau ich die Nockenwelle nun einfach wieder in der Position ein wie ich sie ausgebaut habe oder bau ich sie mit der Makierung wie sie eigentlich sein sollte also auf der Linken Seite wieder ein? Oder erstmal gar nicht einbauen und ggf. noch andere Sachen prüfen/einstellen? Falls ja was?

Wäre über jede Hilfe dankbar, da ich echt keine Ahnung habe wie ich nun vorgehe...

Edit 2:
Gibt es vielleicht unterschiedliche weisen wie das ganze verbaut ist? Bei mir ist das selbe wie bei trxman und ich hab die nockenwelle bis jetzt sicher auch noch nicht angefasst.

trxman Do you maybe have some Tipps on how you fixed the issue? Seems like I have the same issue and the sprocket is mounted the wrong way. I also haven't touched the crankshaft so far and I got the bike with 3k km.

First, for me your camshafts look fine. Couple of abrasions on sliding part are not longitudinal, so I cannot imagine they were made because of movement/friction. A bit of rust on camshaft lobes should not be an issue, as they are on the part which should (theoretically) not touch valve lifter nor anything else. Maybe you could try removing them by some fine grain sandpaper.

Than again, I'm just a rookie as you are, so it' better if somebody more experienced comments on this.

I gave up of removal of camshaft sprocket, as I did not have correct tools. Either way, on second thought, I guess that diagram in service manual shows valve lifting lobe and not protrusion next to sprocket hole. It's just not clearly marked.

Regarding putting back the camshafts:

One turn of the crankshaft (360 degrees) equals 1/2 turn of the camshafts (180 degrees). So, you can have line mark on the generator visible in 2 different positions of camshafts. One position is top dead center (TDC) of compression cycle, while next position (360 crankshaft degrees away) is TDC of exhaust cycle.

Both you and I have removed camshafts in "wrong position" - TDC of compression cycle of piston #1, which is meant for valve clearance measurement, while TDC of exhaust cycle should be used for camshafts removal (there's less pressure on camshafts in that position).

I would not recommend trying put them back in the same position. Instead, you should put them in the "correct position", when "I" sign on intake camshaft points to the rear of the bike. You can do it without any crankshaft rotation, as by putting back camshafts in some specific position you are defining which cycle engine is in. Just make sure mark on generator is visible - crankshaft was not moved in the meanwhile:

image.png

Before putting camshaft caps/holders, position intake camshaft as described in the manual (red arrow):

Capture.JPG

Exhaust camshaft has symmetrical marks, but you should make sure lobes of cylinder #1 (further away from sprocket) are positioned as in manual:

image.png

Next thing is to put cam chain on EXHAUST sprocket as tight as possible WITHOUT rotating crankshaft. Once you did it, install and carefully tighten exhaust camshaft cap, taking care about lubrication tips and cross tightening instructions from manual.

Next, you have to put chain on the INTAKE sprocket as tight as possible, while keeping sprocket mark "I" correctly aligned. You can rotate intake sprocket a bit clockwise to catch correct tooth with the chain, and then rotate it back with chain on it in order to achieve mark "I" alignment. Chain portion between two sprocket should be really tight.

(Video made before I removed camshafts)

Now, before you put INTAKE sprocket cap and start tightening it, I would recommend fixing chain on the intake sprocket by zip tie firmly (blue arrow in my intake sprocket photo), as from my experience chain tend to jump/skip one tooth while tightening the cap. This is caused by tension on the chain being present only from the right-hand side, while left-hand side is loose until chain tensioner is installed. So, remove zip tie only once you have installed and released cam chain tensioner.

Let's hear what other have to say.

magiccube Let me know if you have any additional questions.

Thanks for the detailed explanation trxman . This is also what I figured out so far from my research in the the english forum.
Did you ever fix this issue?

As from my understanding so far, this would also mean, if i just put it back in like you discirbed I have a high liklyhood of the timing beeing off. As with just rotating the camshift into the right position and putting it back in the crankshaft still isn't in the right position. This would also mean I have to recalibrate the timing, which I have no clue on how to do. Than the wierd clicking noise you where experiencing would also make sense to me.

If my understanding is wrong and the timing doesn't need to be recalibrated i would really appreciate if you correct me as this is just my theory.

Edit: I also posted a thread on the english forum: https://www.fz07.org/thread/14999/r…wrong-position/

You don't have to move crankshaft - you only need to align correctly camshafts.

Crankshaft position defines position of pistons in cylinder. Cycle (compression or exhaust) is defined by position of camshafts.

So, to change cycle you just need to mount camshafts 180 degrees different to positions they were in at the moment you removed them. I have explained how to achieve that in my previous post. There will be no timing issues if you manage to keep marks on both sprockets as defined.

I have managed to reduce a bit clicking sound by tightening up chain tensioner as described in manual (tightening up by hand until it reaches the chain - you'll feel the difference in force needed, and than making an additional 1/4 of the turn using some tool).

Rest of the clicking I would connect to valve clearances which I have set to upper limit, so I can imagine camshaft lobes are hitting valve lifters "from a bit bigger height" or "under a bit steeper angle".

BTW, bike starts really easy and clicking is audible only on idle.

I currently do not ride my bike yet (it's still in winter sleep), so I still have to go to some professional mechanic to ask if that clicking is "inside normal boundaries" and confirm engine power and fuel consumption is fine.

Zitat von trxman

So, to change cycle you just need to mount camshafts 180 degrees different to positions they were in at the moment you removed them. I have explained how to achieve that in my previous post. There will be no timing issues if you manage to keep marks on both sprockets as defined.

This is the thing I am still not 100% sure about, since for me while removing the cover of the intake side the camshaft jumped from the marking "I" to the marking "E". If this jump didn't influence anything the crankshaft should be still on the marking right? To be honest I havent checked yet if the crankshaft is still on the marking.

To be honest I also don't completly understand the engine yet (you probatly noticed), so sry for my maybe dumb questions.

Camshaft jumped because it had pressure applied on it by valve lifters. If camshaft cover is still not broken, everything is fine.

You should check position of crankshaft and if it's not "on the mark" any more, you should rotate it until it reaches the mark. While doing so, make sure cam chain is fastened high enough while still being able to move (or just ask somebody to hold it by the hand and release slowly).

Zitat von trxman

Camshaft jumped because it had pressure applied on it by valve lifters. If camshaft cover is still not broken, everything is fine.

You should check position of crankshaft and if it's not "on the mark" any more, you should rotate it until it reaches the mark. While doing so, make sure cam chain is fastened high enough while still being able to move (or just ask somebody to hold it by the hand and release slowly).

Thank you for taking you time with me. This just answered all my questions and releaved me a bit, as I didnt't find any damage on the cover earlier today when I checked it but I will check it again tomorrow.

Just to make sure i understood correctly, basically having the correct positions is "only" necessary to not damage the camshafts/covers because otherwise they would be under pressure? And the timing is only done via the positioning of the crankshaft on the mark and the right postion of the camshafts? So as long as they aren't damaged I should be good to go and can just normaly reassemble everything after changing the shims?

Theoretically, you could remove camshafts in any position if you are careful enough to loosen camshaft bolts in cross pattern 1/4 of the turn each time. Removal of camshaft in some specific position was suggested in order to have the least pressure on them while working.

Putting them back in the correct position, while having crankshaft "on the mark" (TDC of piston #1), should make sure your valves timing is fine.

Zitat von trxman

Theoretically, you could remove camshafts in any position if you are careful enough to loosen camshaft bolts in cross pattern 1/4 of the turn each time. Removal of camshaft in some specific position was suggested in order to have the least pressure on them while working.

Putting them back in the correct position, while having crankshaft "on the mark" (TDC of piston #1), should make sure your valves timing is fine.

Perfect, thank you. This is probatly what saved me, as I only did 1/4 a turn of each screw before moving on to the next one, as I didn't have any space and wanted to be extra carefull.